A few months ago, we wrote about our popular Turnagain Arm Winter Tour and the wildlife that can often be spotted along this beautiful National Scenic Byway. But what about the ‘arm’ itself? We often get questions about this unique waterway winding south of Anchorage, including its strange name, so sit back and enjoy some facts about one of the most unique bodies of saltwater in Alaska.
Stretching 40 miles along some of Southcentral Alaska’s most scenic landscapes, Turnagain Arm is more than a beautiful drive. This natural corridor is a well-known landmark filled with wild tides and icy water from below, and towering mountains, hanging glaciers, and abundant wildlife above it. Hugging the rocky mountainsides of the arm, the Seward Highway and Alaska Railroad carry people and materials south toward the communities of Girdwood, Portage, Whittier, and Seward.
Its origins are ancient. Flowing east from Cook Inlet, Turnagain Arm was formed from a U-shaped valley shaped by glaciers. As these glaciers retreated and water levels rose, this valley filled with tidal deposits of silt and fine sand, which remain today. The result is a fjord that actually helps form the northern boundary of the Kenai Peninsula and provides habitat for beluga whales, bald eagles, the occasional harbor seal, and thousands of salmon and eulachon (called ‘hooligan’ by locals).
So named after Captain James Cook’s effort in 1778 to discover a way to reach the Northwest Passage (spoiler: this wasn’t it), Cook called the waterway “River Turnagain” after grounding his ship, The Resolution, on its sandy, mucky tidal flats. He was forced to turn around, and the name stuck. However, the Dena’ina People called Turnagain Arm Tutl’uh, meaning “back water”, an appropriate moniker, since the tidal swings in and out were dramatic.
One of the most interesting features of Turnagain Arm is indeed its tides, which have highs and lows of up to 30 feet and rush in and out from the narrow channel of the arm at regular intervals. This squeeze of so much water through the fjord at one time creates a bore tide, and watching it happen is an intriguing phenomenon to witness. During the summer months, it’s common to see paddleboarders and surfers riding the bore tide, paddling out through the cold water to give new meaning to the phrase “catch a wave”. Spectators line the pullouts along Beluga Point or Bird Point, cameras in hand, hoping to be the first one to spy the telltale white line of the wave’s arrival. Sometimes, beluga whales follow the surf riders, feasting on fish stirred up by the wave action.
In the winter, Turnagain Arm is still very active, even though ice forms atop its surface most years. Fun fact: Saltwater bodies freeze at a lower temperature than freshwater; 28F, and Turnagain Arm’s narrow surface area means there’s nearly always ice from December through April. That ice may not be stable, however, and with the strong tides underneath it, the arm’s ice is anything but smooth. Huge chunks resembling concrete are haphazardly stacked on top of each other or seen along the shoreline, put there by an incoming or outgoing tide, illustrating the power of nature and the pull of our moon.
Turnagain Arm’s water isn’t the only place to see amazing sights. The shorelines and craggy mountain slopes along the Seward Highway also provide exceptional habitat for the area’s many wildlife species. Look for bald eagles soaring above, especially during salmon spawning season June through October. When the tide is out, the eagles often park themselves on the mudflats, waiting for a salmon carcass or other fish delicacy to wash up, and sometimes it’s quite a convocation to witness with flapping of wings and high-pitched calls permeating the air. Along the rockier areas like Windy Corner and Beluga Point, visitors are often able to spy Dall sheep scrambling along the narrow ledges or resting on the few grassy areas. Occasionally, the sheep make their way closer to the highway, probably in deference to the masses of tourists ogling their curved horns and nimble feet. Note: Do not, under any circumstances, get closer than 200 feet to the sheep (or any Alaska wild animal).
We’re often asked about bears during the drive along Turnagain Arm, and the short answer is, yes, they’re there, but don’t always make themselves known to us humans in big vehicles. The most likely type of bear to be seen along the Seward Highway is a black bear, and it’ll probably be grazing on the bright green grasses lining the roadway or snow slide areas above. When the salmon begin running, brown bears can often be spotted farther up Bird Creek (near the Bird Point pullout and parking area). Greatland Adventures guides, as locals, will keep a sharp eye out for bears along the drive and let guests know when and if it is safe to pull over for a closer look.
Ready to book your unforgettable Greatland day? We can’t wait to see you on an Alaska adventure tour!
Winter Dog Sledding Tours in Willow
Experience Alaska’s official state sport on an authentic dog sled ride with a top-ten Iditarod team in Willow, just north of Anchorage. Train on the same private trails used for the Iditarod, meet champion sled dogs, take in Denali views.
Anchorage Northern Lights Tour
Journey to view and photograph the Aurora Borealis in the greater Anchorage area.
Fairbanks Northern Lights Tour
Join us and experience the magic of Aurora Borealis in the greater Fairbanks area.
